Local lore says that Resolute is actually a
transcription error and the small bay at the bottom of frozen
Cornwallis Island was actually first called Desolate! Certainly its
an unprepossessing place, ringed by the frozen ocean and a
collection of dusty, creaking, wooden huts - home to about
300 hardy souls full time and a colourful collection of itinerant
characters. Despite reaching the outer limits of humanity on our
planet, we were moved by the warmth and helpfulness of everyone we
encountered. Aziz, the wheeler dealing local entrepreneur who has
called Resolute home after 32 years there (by way of Tanzania
originally!), was a total star - putting us up in his hotel,
regaling us with stories of polar bear attacks, skidoo treks over
the frozen seas, epic treks further North and sharing his
hospitality. Thanks a million to you, Josh, Scott and all the guys
who went out of your way to help us in every way we
needed!
Interesting Aziz told us that when he arrived in 1978 -
and until the mid 1980's - the Harbour was completely frozen over
the entire year and an ice breaker would be sent in in July to
break up the ice. Since then, however, the period without solid sea
ice has got longer and longer - and from a time where nothing but
snow would fall, its now not uncommon for Resolute to have rain
between July and mid September. Certainly something is changing
dramatically - albeit rather too late for Franklin and the other
British Explorers of bygone eras!
Having had to pick our way into Resolute yesterday, we
were amazed that the sea ice had entirely been swept away by the
wind and tides overnight and we had a clear passage into the Barrow
Straight where we encountered our first really serious ocean
conditions. Dave Segel helmed the boat with consummate skill,
taking some seriously steep, narrow pitched waves and yet keeping
the rest of us, and the boat, in one piece! The boat really came
alive in his hands and we are all in awe of Dave Smith's work in
producing what must be, by some distance, the world's most
exceptional RIB. Gradually the waves relented and we enjoyed the
last couple of hours in today's 190 mile leg in calm seas driving
southwards into the sun and (slightly) warmer waters. The crew is
working brilliantly as a team - enjoying a life changing experience
- and having a blast at the same time.
Tim Levy